#26 Justa Jammeren

On most mornings, when the fog is elsewhere, this is the view from our boat in Camden Harbor - The Waterfront Restaurant, a local favorite, with the owner's boat Ellie tied up at the dock. But one morning, the same view was a bit different.

Ellie had politely moved elsewhere to make room for the Victory Chimes, which dwarfed everything in sight. The crew had come to town for The Windjammer Festival, an annual event not to be missed. 

This was departure day and it was fascinating to watch how the crew moved this 132-foot tall ship away from the dock.

Because this boat is not outfitted with modern technology, like bow and stern thrusters, the services of dinghies and yawl boats are required to pull and push her off.

But apparently it's okay for the captain to make use of modern devices to communicate with his crew.

A National Historic Landmark

The Victory Chimes is three-masted schooner built in 1900, and is the last remaining example of the Chesapeake Bay Ram Schooner, which is one with no topmasts. In her working days, she hauled cargo up and down the east coast. In 1946 she was converted to a passenger vessel.

Schooner Olad, offering day sails out of Camden

Of the almost two dozen schooners which graced the harbor for Labor Day Weekend, all except Camden's day trippers were gone by Monday morning. That is the scheduled time for guests aboard to begin their week of adventure on a windjammer.

It is always a thrill to come across one of these leviathans when cruising; almost as thrilling as seeing a real leviathan! Fast forward to the last day of a week-long winddjammer cruise. We spotted TWO of Camden's tall ships preparing to drop anchor off of Islesboro for the final night.

The Lewis R French is another National Historic Landmark vessel; 141 years old, 101 feet long, with 3000 square feet of sail. The crew sails her in the traditional way, without an  inboard engine.

The Angelique, on the other hand, was built specifically for windjammer cruising and is a stunning sight to happen upon.

It looked like both crew and passengers were having a good time. Can you tell them apart? Must be something in the lifestyle that homogenizes everyone.

 We left them to the serenity of the protected harbor and headed back to Camden. As frequently happens in the afternoon, the wind and seas were picking up. Heading into the sun made it difficult to spot the ubiquitous lobster buoys.

They are much easier to spot ... and dodge ... on a clear day in calm seas!

But we don't complain. We love Maine seafood as much as everyone, and appreciate the hard work and life of the fishermen.

 After all, life, or a just a vacation in Maine, isn't completes until you've savored a lobster roll, or fred clams, or raw oysters, or shrimp from one 'a them take-out places.

Once the order is placed, the hungry horde is entertained by the walls which are plastered with entertaining information and instructions.

These provide clues as to how long this establishment has been serving $20-$60 seafood orders tucked into hot dog rolls. 

The walls are peppered with signs to ensure that the barbarian aspirants behave while waiting for their food. Sometimes it can get a bit tedious catering to the clientele, or tolerating them ... we guess.

 The more signs, the longer they've been in business.

And it's pretty easy to conclude which condiment is the most popular.


















Ahhh! Finally, your number is announced over a loud speaker, your order is delivered in a paper bag, and consumed on paper and plastic. 

The indoctrination for the next generation.

Here's a footnote:

When you tire of sticky picnic benches and dried ketchup, but still want seafood, try Shepherd's Pie in Rockport. This place has a new twist on just about everything. Fried clams? Sure thing. They'll come wrapped in taco shells with avocado, cabbage, and green tomato.

And if you've finally tired of seafood and just want a good old burger, have an organic cheeseburger with tomato confit, local cheese and purple mustard.

Or barbecued local chicken with scallion ginger marinade and carrot vinaigrette ...

Or a pork belly sandwich with pear rosemary mustard and sweet soy.

Who thinks up this stuff?

***Only have the Mai Tai with fresh squeezed lime juice, almond syrup, Cointreau, Mt. Gay, Appleton Estate, and Lemon Hart 151 rums if someone is willing to carry you home!