Thursday, July 5, 2012

#12 Rideau Canal Capers

Celebrating holidays, your own and those of the country you're visiting, is always exhilarating. 

On July 1 we celebrated Canada Day and the War of 1812 Bicentennial in Kingston, Ontario ...

 ... with our Canadian friends Larry and Marilyn Johnston.

Yesterday morning, as we mounted Old Glory on the stern we wondered when our turn to celebrate would occur along the Rideau Canal. It didn't take long. 

As we entered our first lock of the day, a man from Texas spotted the flag. Americans! “Don't leave,” he said. “We're going to have the National Anthem!” And lo and behold, as we finished the lock rise, his teenage grandson played the tune on his French horn, as we all paused and listened.

 
That was the third day on the canal. Here's Sally W on the first night, at a floating KOA, communing with Rock-O, Moon River, Constant Craving, Water's Edge, and The Mikita B. 

 Actually, this isn't what it appears. It's a beautiful peaceful spot at the top of Upper Brewer's Lock #43. 
Parks Canada has done a great job with facilities for boaters, fisherpeople, paddlers, and picnickers.
 Every lock is a park manned by several friendly and helpful lock attendants. They have been schooled in running these 180-year old hand-operated locks. 

Along the way, we learned that the folks from the Erie Canal paid a visit here about ten years ago and took a few marketing cues.


As far as we can conclude, the Rideau Canal was created because of the War of 1812, when the Brits and Americans just couldn't stop squabbling over their respective northern boundaries on the continent, particularly along the St. Lawrence River and Lake Ontario. 

 After 2-1/2 years of not much progress on either side, they called it quits, retreated to their dugouts ...

 ... and reverted to primitive life forms.

But unease persisted for many years. By 1826 the Brits decided to build a secure waterway route to transport troops and supplies from Montreal to Kingston, “just in case.” (This is a corollary of Justa Keep Go!) (Perhaps the success of the Erie Canal lit a light bulb.) Six years later, in 1832, and twenty years after the start of the War of 1812, the Rideau Canal opened. 
 By that time the fear of war had passed, everyone was happy ... 

 ... and resumed life as usual.


Towns along the Canal were thriving. Instead of a military achievement, the waterway became a commercial success for several decades until the St. Lawrence Canal System, steamboats and railway burst that bubble. 
Even so, the Rideau Canal remained in use and is the only canal from the great 19th century building boom that still operates on its original route.

The 125 mile route connects rivers and lakes with 11 miles of canal cuts. And we repeat: most locks use hand-operated original-design equipment.


 Life along the Canal is such a hardship for boaters. The sounds of loons, whip-o-wills, and coyotes keep us awake at night. Beautiful sunsets are all too common.

Scenery is blue and green.

Navigation is a challenge. The waters can be weedy; channels narrow; depths - well, almost non-existent. 

 Channels have copious amounts of markers, at times looking like a cribbage board.

And speaking of challenges, this one poses an adverbial one.

One must do his homework ...


 and pay attention to speed limits ...  

 ... because you never know what's around the corner!  It was a tight squeeze, and he didn't even slow down.

This is true grid-lock.

And then there are the 95% (who have no clue).

 One must be prepared for unexpected delays - locks do break down.
 Bridge heights require attention. In this case, it crossed over the middle of the lock.

 Today we are laying by in the town of Westport on Upper Rideau Lake. Temps are once again in the mid 90s.

This isn't the most remote, quaint, picturesque spot one could choose, but the oddities are interesting. This is to see if Sally's sister Susie is reading this blog. These pups are not stuffed.

 Based on the compliments we've received, we are convinced that we have the most beautiful boat in the world. Many people who have sailed all their lives but want to let go of the sails to continue boating in their sunset years, are intrigued with the idea of tugs. We feel we are ambassadors for tugging! With the interest we've seen, the LNVT website should be jammed.


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