#10 Prelude to Canada

6:30 AM

8:00 AM

CLAYTON, NY

We like Mark Twain's quips, especially those about life in New England. He said, “If you don't like the weather, wait a minute.” Today, that saying is reversed: “If you like the weather, wait a minute.” The forecast calls for increasing winds, so we've decided to stay at the dock, borrowed a bicycle and ventured to the library where there is WiFi.

 

We are holed up in Clayton, NY on the St. Lawrence River in the Thousand Islands region. Not sure if it is technically correct to say we're in the Thousand Islands if we're not on an island, but it sure feels like it when you walk around town. Clayton is a popular place for tourists and boaters, with ferries to the islands. Clayton is also home to the famous Antique Boat Museum, with several buildings looking like LL Bean stores, housing a great collection of - guess what? 

 

 If you like Thousand Island Dressing, you'll be thrilled to know that it was first served here in Clayton. 

 

It is taking time to get a feel for this region and find the maximum experience for a boater. Because the US/Canadian border runs east/west through the middle of the islands, one can't cruise willy-nilly back and forth. 

 

 

This is also a bad idea because the islands are actually tips of mountains, mostly submerged, and one must be aware of rocks waiting to take a chunk out of your boat. We are following the suggestion of the cruising guides and first exploring the southern shore of the river, which is the US side.

 

 First impressions: this is a beautiful region that looks and feels just like Maine. Little islands covered by trees and meadows, rocky shores, summer houses.




 



The towns along the shore have done a nice job to be tourist friendly, with restaurants, museums, galleries, and historic sites.

 And even the island folk have embraced wind power.




Well then, how are The Thousand Islands different from Maine? The water is fresh, temperature is 68 degrees compared to Maine's 61; air temperature was 75 yesterday, compared to Maine's 61. 






 






There are no lobster pots to dodge; the trees are deciduous (not conifers as in Maine.) 







 

And although we occasionally see large freighters in Penobscot Bay, they are much more prevalent here. After all, this is the St. Lawrence Seaway. 

There are two main shipping channels and they are very busy - 24 hours a day! 

If you are not staying out of their way, you are at the dock rocking with their wakes.

See the pilot boat approaching the ladder on the side.

  The town of Cape Vincent marks the end of the river and beginning of the Great Lakes. Freighters are required to carry pilots who are familiar with local waters, and pilot boats meet the freighters here to exchange pilots. This is a tricky maneuver, requiring the pilot boat to tie onto the moving freighter and the pilot to climb up a ladder onto the ship!

Back in Clayton, we are tied to the town dock, at times feeling like we are in a washing machine from boat wakes. Since we've been on the boat for four weeks, a walk on land gives us the look of drunken sailors. 

 

This was taken in stride by the folks at the Antique Boat Museum. They've done a superb job collecting and chronicling the evolution of boats and exploits of boaters; people with a passion for the water, setting speed records and exploration feats. Our late arrival didn't permit enough time to properly investigate, but enough to appreciate the preservation efforts.

 We came across this description introducing art and boating, and think our boating friends will find it particularly relevant.


Being on the water in a boat is unique in this world, an evocative experience, at once luxurious and dangerous, confining and greatly liberating. This makes boating a powerful method of personal discovery: a way of exploring ideas as well as coastlines. All boats and all voyages are ancient in concept and have meaning for all people regardless of personal experience. 
 

The long story of our interaction with the water is a common history that artists can draw upon to speak to a broad audience. The way boats are used as symbols and mediums in art reveals the greater meaning of boats in our culture, for boaters and non-boaters alike.
- Antique Boat Museum

 

Tomorrow we plan to take off for Canada and start counting islands.