#11 The Thousand Islands

CAMELOT ISLAND

We have “crossed over to the other side” and begun the planned month in Canadian waters. Even though Canada in general doesn't really look and feel any different, this is a special place. There is good reason why this island shares its name with Arthurian legend and the Lerner and Loewe musical. 

The idyllic quality makes it the perfect spot to call home and raise a family. And we are indeed lucky that the residents share their territory.

Hiking trails through mosquito infested tick laden, lovely woodlands lead to other coves and delights.








 
But we wouldn't choose this one which was dominated by the sound of one boat's generator. Some islands even ban the use of them and for good reason. 

Camelot is one of twenty islands of The Saint Lawrence Islands National Park system accessible only by boat. One can choose to anchor, tie up to a dock, or snag a mooring. Anchoring is out of the question for us because our trusty Danforth is not the best choice in these waters. Seems the bottom is either rocky or weedy. Danforths do best in mud and clay. There are a few places with clay bottoms, just not where we wanted to be.

 

The moorings are clearly visible, but not easy to grab. Most boat hooks are not configured to pick up a ring lying on a flat surface. With careful coaxing of the mooring to midships we were able to reach over, grab the ring and put a line through it.

Now secure, we assessed where we were. A little less than five feet of water under the keel; stern fifteen feet from rocks ashore. Hmmm. What would our self-appointed boat instructors John McLeod and David Lyman say? Would the Dalai Lama of LNVT Dave Howell wrinkle his brow? Hmmm. Conditions were calm; over 24 hours we swung in all directions and never ever came close to sounding the alarm. Fooled 'em again. No, actually Captain Allan did a good job leaving no slack in the mooring chain to keep us firmly in position.

Apparently, even some locals aren't savvy about this challenge. We watched our new neighbor Gordon from nearby Kingston try to grab the ring with his handy dandy boat hook. On his second attempt the fat hook jammed fast in the ring while the boat floated by. When Gordon had to relinquish the hook, Allan abandoned his half-eaten lunch and jumped into our dinghy. This is one of a dozen shots of the whole rescue mission. Seems Gordon's wife Jean has 
 never really taken to operating the boat and sat watching from the stern.






Camelot is one of the best spots we've ever found. 

  
At dusk, a family on a sailboat arrived. “We've been looking forward to this for ten months,” said the captain from the Bo Adams gene pool. Were we on his favorite mooring? No, and he and his wife proceeded to demonstrate the text book way to drop anchor and tie to shore. Nice people, like the majority of those who love the water.

Most boaters will tell you that one of their greatest challenges and greatest treasures is a picture of their boat underway. After all, anyone can get a picture fastened to a dock. While checking into Canada in Gananoque, the trawler Betty L from Sandwich, MA tied alongside us. The captain, Bob, came right over. Hadn't he seen us in the Cape Cod Canal last year? Whoa! Yes, indeed. We chatted, learned he and wife Madeleine were doing the Great Loop, and were picking up Sunday River skiing friends to join them for a leg. Small world.

No wait. Even smaller. The next day as we were cruising between islands, the radio barked, “Sally W, Sally W., Betty L.” We responded and they were approaching from the east, and we shared island destinations. Pretty soon we were abreast, shooting those fabulous underway shots of each other. We haven't seen their shots of us yet, but here they are, steaming for all points wonderful.

When we charted our route last winter we didn't plan to explore the Thousand Islands, but we have since learned it's best NOT to make plans. The experience here proves the point. 











 

The waters are clean, fresh, non-tidal, and the natural beauty rivals Maine. Oh yes, we stand corrected. There are many types of evergreens here.






Summer homes come in all types and sizes ...

... old, new, cute, quaint, small, medium, large extra large and super-size.







 

 

We question the goal of this family to cover the entire island with the dwelling.
 

What fun to own an island! This one is Axeman, belonging to the family of good friend Carrie Ritson. While floating off the south shore, we phoned her at home in Dummerston. She and husband Dan Normandeau and girls come here for two weeks each summer. What a treasure.

  
To be one of the official “thousand” (actually 1800+) islands, land must have one square foot above water 365 days a year, have at least one tree.

 A geologic formation called the Frontenac Arch is responsible for this island chain which runs for the first fifty miles of the Saint Lawrence River. On the one hand this is a boater's paradise; on the other, navigating in this region requires nautical expertise.

Because these islands are actually tops of ancient mountains, water depths change quickly.

The captain found the rapid and radical changes a bit unnerving; one moment - 30 feet, the next – 109. And then – nothing!

 The other challenge is the wind. It is a way of life due to the long fetch from Lake Ontario. Anchored in the lea is a delight, but out in the channel, be prepared for 20+ knots.

 
Yesterday the short run from Camelot Island to the Trident Yacht Club near Kingston was unforgettable: strong winds, unfamiliar waters, and lots of boats! We passed through the Lake Fleet and Admiralty Island groups, and took the scenic (and narrow!) route down the Wanderer's Channel. 













The wind subsided a bit as we entered the Bateau Channel, BUT a rare cable ferry sustained the adrenaline flow. Allan realized that one doesn't want to be in the path of the approaching ferry because the submerged cable can be just below the surface. A hard reverse gear and we paused as the ferry crossed our bow.

Justa Keepa Go!

 We are enjoying this holiday weekend in Kingston, Ontario with LNVT friends Larry and Marilyn Johnston, who are showing us this nice region AND their tug, which is still high and dry while the hull is worked on. This blog is courtesy of their home WiFi. It is getting harder to find a means to create this blog. But we are not giving up. Just can't promise when the next one will be. But we hope it will be soon with a report on the Rideau Canal.

Happy Canada Day everyone! Eh!!!!!

#10 Prelude to Canada

6:30 AM

8:00 AM

CLAYTON, NY

We like Mark Twain's quips, especially those about life in New England. He said, “If you don't like the weather, wait a minute.” Today, that saying is reversed: “If you like the weather, wait a minute.” The forecast calls for increasing winds, so we've decided to stay at the dock, borrowed a bicycle and ventured to the library where there is WiFi.

 

We are holed up in Clayton, NY on the St. Lawrence River in the Thousand Islands region. Not sure if it is technically correct to say we're in the Thousand Islands if we're not on an island, but it sure feels like it when you walk around town. Clayton is a popular place for tourists and boaters, with ferries to the islands. Clayton is also home to the famous Antique Boat Museum, with several buildings looking like LL Bean stores, housing a great collection of - guess what? 

 

 If you like Thousand Island Dressing, you'll be thrilled to know that it was first served here in Clayton. 

 

It is taking time to get a feel for this region and find the maximum experience for a boater. Because the US/Canadian border runs east/west through the middle of the islands, one can't cruise willy-nilly back and forth. 

 

 

This is also a bad idea because the islands are actually tips of mountains, mostly submerged, and one must be aware of rocks waiting to take a chunk out of your boat. We are following the suggestion of the cruising guides and first exploring the southern shore of the river, which is the US side.

 

 First impressions: this is a beautiful region that looks and feels just like Maine. Little islands covered by trees and meadows, rocky shores, summer houses.




 



The towns along the shore have done a nice job to be tourist friendly, with restaurants, museums, galleries, and historic sites.

 And even the island folk have embraced wind power.




Well then, how are The Thousand Islands different from Maine? The water is fresh, temperature is 68 degrees compared to Maine's 61; air temperature was 75 yesterday, compared to Maine's 61. 






 






There are no lobster pots to dodge; the trees are deciduous (not conifers as in Maine.) 







 

And although we occasionally see large freighters in Penobscot Bay, they are much more prevalent here. After all, this is the St. Lawrence Seaway. 

There are two main shipping channels and they are very busy - 24 hours a day! 

If you are not staying out of their way, you are at the dock rocking with their wakes.

See the pilot boat approaching the ladder on the side.

  The town of Cape Vincent marks the end of the river and beginning of the Great Lakes. Freighters are required to carry pilots who are familiar with local waters, and pilot boats meet the freighters here to exchange pilots. This is a tricky maneuver, requiring the pilot boat to tie onto the moving freighter and the pilot to climb up a ladder onto the ship!

Back in Clayton, we are tied to the town dock, at times feeling like we are in a washing machine from boat wakes. Since we've been on the boat for four weeks, a walk on land gives us the look of drunken sailors. 

 

This was taken in stride by the folks at the Antique Boat Museum. They've done a superb job collecting and chronicling the evolution of boats and exploits of boaters; people with a passion for the water, setting speed records and exploration feats. Our late arrival didn't permit enough time to properly investigate, but enough to appreciate the preservation efforts.

 We came across this description introducing art and boating, and think our boating friends will find it particularly relevant.


Being on the water in a boat is unique in this world, an evocative experience, at once luxurious and dangerous, confining and greatly liberating. This makes boating a powerful method of personal discovery: a way of exploring ideas as well as coastlines. All boats and all voyages are ancient in concept and have meaning for all people regardless of personal experience. 
 

The long story of our interaction with the water is a common history that artists can draw upon to speak to a broad audience. The way boats are used as symbols and mediums in art reveals the greater meaning of boats in our culture, for boaters and non-boaters alike.
- Antique Boat Museum

 

Tomorrow we plan to take off for Canada and start counting islands.